Thursday 11 October 2012

Periodized Training 7.1 (update)

Well, I tried the metabolic resistance training circuit for 5 weeks.  In that time, I managed to climb only twice: The first I talked about in the original article, when it was too early for any adaptation to have taken place; and the second was the circuit (comprised of easy problems).  The weather was simply uncooperative.  So, it's impossible to evaluate the effectiveness of the programme in terms of improving climbing performance.  That being said, there are a few training outcomes that were demonstrated:


  1. I shed 2lbs of fat over the 5 week period.
  2. There were no changes in lean mass.
  3. I felt energized, and was motivated (to train and climb).
  4. There was very sublte to moderate DOMS (delayed onset muscle soreness) following 4 of the training sessions.  This was resolved within 24 hours of onset so would not have lingered to interfere with climbing days had there been any.
  5. I survived the 48 problem Munson Lake bouldering circuit with relative ease, and no lingering effects (aside from a couple punctures from the sharp crystals).

Was it worth it? Yes.

Did it work? In a way, at least.

Do I recommend it? Probably not as it stands.  I don't feel stronger or that I can climb any harder.  But, it is a challenge for most athletes to avoid gaining fat mass in season, and many of the strategies to combat this (whether through exercise or diet) can hinder performance nearly as much as the increased weight gain.  This protocol was definitely effective for me in terms of fat loss and without at least some of the side effects.

Am I done with it? No, I will continue to investigate and experiment with it.  I think it may have a role in combination with other protocols in the same training phase, maybe even in the same workout.  It will take some time to refine it, at which point I will share it.

In the mean time, since the days are short and climbing days are limited, I have a better idea of what days are definitely not for climbing.  I've gone back to a more traditional in-season approach for now.

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