Wednesday, 17 October 2012

Big Slab Sees First Ascent!


Back on our first exploratory bouldering session about 2 years ago Adam's sixth sense was in fine form and led him to the 4 boulders that comprise what is now referred to as the Slab Area.  We cut birch saplings to expose the base of a couple of them and went back to Cornerstones to establish the first 14 boulder problems at Munson Lake.

Since then, eleven problems have been climbed on Mace, Small Slab and Inversée, and a trail cut to the Big Slab.  Many climbers have been taken to gaze upon this massive hunk of rock, but no one took the bait.  Even scrubbing it would be an undertaking, let alone the balls that are required to work these thin 25 footers with a cut away landing area.  Once I did try to figure out some start moves, but that was half-hearted.
Big Slab. Unfortunately this perspective doesn't quite capture the grandeur of this granite erratic, but it will work well for the guide.  Notice the N-shaped hold on the right side of the slab.  The left arete is climbed mostly from the other side.

On Saturday, Jono said “let’s go for it.”  So we did.  He came up with a creative rigging system which allowed us to scrub the upper portions.

We sent the left arete with ease, then attempted the slab itself.  There is a very thin start up the middle that will be possible, but I couldn’t really get going.  To the right, there is beautiful looking sequence of reachy moves where we had a bit more success.  A couple more pads and/or another spotter is required though, so we moved on.  I can’t wait to get back there, though.  That line on the right of the slab is doable and will be a fantastic addition to the Munson Lake Boulders.

Here are a couple of shots from where we ended the day in the low angled sun hitting the West faces of the Cornterstones.  Jono's right hand is sticking like velcro to the high textured face of the Glute Boulder, as he moves up the thin slab known as Sideshow Bobbed.
Jono R on Sideshow Bobbed V3, at Munson Lake, NB C Goodman Photo
Jono R on Sideshow Bobbed V3, at Munson Lake, NB. C Goodman Photo


3 comments:

  1. I was just thinking of this boulder today!!
    I could come down one weekend with a ton of pads from the UNB R&I club. If I can convince Pete to come with his truck we could have 6-8 pads. I'm psyched for bouldering again!!

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  2. Cool. There is no need to make an ordeal of it though. We only had 2 people and 2 pads that day. I'd do it with just one more of either. (You need two stacked in order to reach the starting hold, but the next move is long and dynamic to the left and a fall would take you beyond the original pad stack. So it was a spot or pad slide, and really I wanted both, since the landing zone for moves 2+ is sloping.) Two spotters and 4 pads would be plush.

    I'll be there as much as road conditions allow over the next 3 days, Dom, so send me a text.

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  3. Update:
    The right line has been sent *Jazz Hands! V4
    The middle line is still up for grabs

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