Periodized Training 5 (Power)

The power phase just wrapped up on Friday, and went well.  Training took place 3 days a week, each focusing on a different contraction type.  Tuesdays were fast SSC plyometrics, with a few light timed exercises at the gym, and quickness training on the wall.  For this drill I arranged one jug and a multitude of tiny hold on the vertical portion of Kermit.  Beginning hanging from the jug with one hand, and quickly campused with the other hand touching all other holds in a predetermined pattern, ending on the largish upper hold, with the jug hold locked out at chest height.  This provided me with big gains in contact strength, targeting, co-ordination.

Set-up for quickness drill.

Wednesdays emphasized explosive starts through a couple Olympic lifting variations, (Which are not climbing specific, [I suppose a very weak argument could be made for spotting and landing when bouldering] but nonetheless important for neuromuscular development. And fun.) and maximal dynos from a dead hang. Three exercises, four sets, two reps, 95-100% 1RM.

The focus on Fridays was slow SSC plyometrics: Three to four sets of five reps for plyo push-ups, dumbbell squat jumps, and campus board laddering.  Like the other days it was only one climbing-specific exercise and a couple others to round things out.

Climbing practice averaged only once a week, as I managed to made it outside onto the rock 2-4 other times each week.  On the woodie I would do one to three hard moves on small (3 finger, 1 pad) holds, as in the strength phase, then one tough dynamic move to a medium or good hold, then tack on another static hard move or two.  For the most part 4-6 moves at a time following a static, static, dynamic, static, dynamic, static (or similar) rhythm.

Outside was a mix of difficulties, styles, and volumes, depending on mood, weather and partners: 3 serious attempts on a longstanding project and some moderates at Gondola Point (It's amazing how good I feel deciphering this thing. It's just a matter of time now, I think. Stay tuned for that write-up.), a few easy trad days at Cochrane Lane, THE boulder, Cedar Point, Kingston Crag...

A week of active rest (no training) then I'll pick up with a long maintenance phase.