Periodized Training 4 (Strength)

My strength phase wrapped up on Friday, and as I move into the power phase, I realize my posts about the programme have fallen behind.  My adherence to the programme has not wavered, though.  I’ve made big gains in terms of strength, and the training adaptations are really beginning to show in my climbing.

The training volume was halved, and spread out over four resistance training days, rather than three.  This was as much for scheduling convenience as it was for how well the selected exercises grouped in fours.  Most weeks, I trained two days on, one-off, two-on, two-off.  Day one focused on 3D overhead pulls; day 2 on squatting and overhead presses; day 3 on dips and rotational pulls; day 4 on squatting and rotational pushes.  Days 1 and 3 were the most climbing-specific, with 2 and 4 more for general strength (and spotting, I guess).  

Training four weeks out of five, I was able to progress the loads linearly.  Week 3 was one of “active rest”, spent on the slopes.  Most exercises were performed in 3 sets of 5 throughout the phase.  Some of the simpler movements used a 5-4-3 scheme for weeks 2 and 5.  I got strong!

With regards to climbing practice, a bit of a wrinkle interfered with my plans:  We had nice enough conditions to climb outside a few days, and I took advantage of the opportunity.  We tended towards easy climbs which was a tonne of fun, but not the greatest for honing strength gains made in the weight room.  Regardless, I did climb or practice 3 sessions each week.  

Kermit the Tiger, before the hold relocation.

I took down all the holds from Kermit, then replaced them oriented to emphasize 3 finger-1 pad usage.  A few pinches and 2-finger pockets rounded things out.  I didn’t set any problems.  Every couple of minutes, I would get on the wall and string together 2-5 hard moves, climbing with very precise and deliberate movements.  Rarely did I do the same abbreviated problem more than once.  The focus was on maximal strength, so 3 moves on shitty hand holds was the goal.  Rarely did I fall/fail, which I wanted to avoid as the sudden shock load carries some injury risk which isn’t worth it at this point.  I’d usually lower off after sticking a particularly difficult move and holding it for a few seconds.  I got strong!

The reason for giving so much attention to a 3 finger-1 pad grip requires a more in-depth discussion than I have time for now, but I’ll post about that in detail shortly.