It's been a busy time for work, with shitty weather, so there's not been much to report climbing-wise, with one major exception: I've started to train for climbing. This is something I've never done myself, which shocks everyone I've told thus far. It's true: in my close to 20 years of climbing, and 10 years as a strength and conditioning coach, I have never formally trained to become a better climber.
I have trained as a football player, hockey player, sprinter, skier, basketball player, and more. I've managed to sneak an exercise into these programs from time to time that maybe climbing specific, but the overall program has always been one for maximizing power and speed for a very different sport.
This winter's work schedule has given me a window that allows me to train for climbing, so I figured I should take advantage. When it comes to climbing, I am not competitive. I don't keep a ticklist of my ascents. I don't chase numbers either. I rarely project established climbs. (Either I get it or I don't.) I only grade my FA's because I'm pressured into it, and I'm lousy at putting an accurate number on them when I do. So why do I want to become a better climber?
That question has been demotivating any thought of climbing training for more than a decade. But recent discoveries at Munson Lake highlighted some weaknesses in my climbing, and the new lines responsible for exposing them look like 3-star gems. I want to climb them.
For me, the quality of a climb has nothing to do with the grade*. (Some of my favourite routes are 5.6.) The only advantage of being a better climber is to have more high-quality routes/problems within your scope of ability.
*This is a bit of an overstatement. Successfully climbing a route just barely within your physical limits does add a bit more to the experience, but not a full star. This is a double-edged sword. When it comes to climbing high-quality routes that are easy for you, they are still high-quality and fun, but will lack that "at my limit" bonus.
Stay tuned for updates on my training...
Sunday 29 January 2012
Thursday 5 January 2012
Training for Climbing: My Philosophy
I may not be putting up cutting edge first ascents, but I am a decent climber and an excellent strength & conditioning coach, so I feel confident in sharing a bit of my philosophy on training for climbing. A climbing wall is for climbing practice, a weight room is for training the body. Let me expand on that statement:
The first part is obvious, and I doubt anyone will disagree with me on that one. A variety of angles covered in holds is best for learning to move efficiently, expanding/improving ones repertoire of techniques (flag, back flag, drop knee, back step, cross hook, bicycle, toe hook, heel hook, rock on, stem, jams, laybacks, matches, lock-offs, cross-throughs, gastons, underclings, etc.), practising static and dynamic movements, rest positions, and clipping.
When it comes to strength, power, flexibility, endurance, and related anatomical and physiological adaptations, a weight room should be the facility of choice for climbers. This is where gymnasts, football players, judokas, dancers and circus performers do their training. The club, field, mat, and studio are where practices are held. Why? because each facility is designed for a specific part of athletic development. A climbing gym with a few dumbbells, some rock rings, and a stability ball is not a weight room. A weight room with a hangboard and campus rungs doesn’t make a climbing gym. A fitness club with a machine circuit and a treadwall is neither.
To truly develop strength, you need really HEAVY implements (such as barbells, dumbbells, and cable systems) whose resistance can be varied based on the movement and progressed along with the athletes development. Flexibility and power are best trained with comparatively lighter loads, but they need to be finely adjustable. To decrease the chances of overuse injuries, the majority of conditioning (sport-specific endurance) can and should also take place in a weight room, and only fine tuned over a couple weeks on the wall.
Now, training an athlete is a very complex task that should be done on an individualized scale, and in a very structured manner. I simply cannot cover it in a blog format. If you’re interested in hiring me, you can. You can also check out my sister blog for general strength & conditioning info.
Finger strength requires a bit of attention here, though. Overall grip strength and endurance should be getting plenty of attention with climbing practice and the use of free weights. When working on movement and rest techniques, you should use a diversity of hold sizes and shapes with occasionally concentrated effort to grip the holds in ways you don’t like to (open hand and finger combinations especially). This will help train grip strength without overtraining it. If you’re coming off injury or have obvious weakness this will require more attention, maybe through use of a hangboard for a month or so.
The first part is obvious, and I doubt anyone will disagree with me on that one. A variety of angles covered in holds is best for learning to move efficiently, expanding/improving ones repertoire of techniques (flag, back flag, drop knee, back step, cross hook, bicycle, toe hook, heel hook, rock on, stem, jams, laybacks, matches, lock-offs, cross-throughs, gastons, underclings, etc.), practising static and dynamic movements, rest positions, and clipping.
When it comes to strength, power, flexibility, endurance, and related anatomical and physiological adaptations, a weight room should be the facility of choice for climbers. This is where gymnasts, football players, judokas, dancers and circus performers do their training. The club, field, mat, and studio are where practices are held. Why? because each facility is designed for a specific part of athletic development. A climbing gym with a few dumbbells, some rock rings, and a stability ball is not a weight room. A weight room with a hangboard and campus rungs doesn’t make a climbing gym. A fitness club with a machine circuit and a treadwall is neither.
To truly develop strength, you need really HEAVY implements (such as barbells, dumbbells, and cable systems) whose resistance can be varied based on the movement and progressed along with the athletes development. Flexibility and power are best trained with comparatively lighter loads, but they need to be finely adjustable. To decrease the chances of overuse injuries, the majority of conditioning (sport-specific endurance) can and should also take place in a weight room, and only fine tuned over a couple weeks on the wall.
Now, training an athlete is a very complex task that should be done on an individualized scale, and in a very structured manner. I simply cannot cover it in a blog format. If you’re interested in hiring me, you can. You can also check out my sister blog for general strength & conditioning info.
Finger strength requires a bit of attention here, though. Overall grip strength and endurance should be getting plenty of attention with climbing practice and the use of free weights. When working on movement and rest techniques, you should use a diversity of hold sizes and shapes with occasionally concentrated effort to grip the holds in ways you don’t like to (open hand and finger combinations especially). This will help train grip strength without overtraining it. If you’re coming off injury or have obvious weakness this will require more attention, maybe through use of a hangboard for a month or so.
Wednesday 4 January 2012
Best Saw
For 10 years now I have been using a Trail Blazer Take-Down Buck Saw in my new routing endeavours. It has also served well around the yard and for clearing trails.
When collapsed into it's storage position, I once missed clipping it to my harness and it dropped down the Cedar Point cliffs. It survived unharmed. That was 3 years, 20 trees, and hundreds of limbs ago. This fall, a split started to develop in the aluminum cylinders where the steel blade sits. It still works, but the blade must be tensioned repeatedly and each time it worsens the split a bit.
During the holidays, I contacted the manufacturer outlining the problem and asked "What are my options?". Monday I received an email reply that said "Please send me your mailing address and I will have a new saw sent to you." I sent that info and today at 9:30 am a courier delivered a complimentary replacement saw!
Go to trailblazerproducts and buy one for yourself. They're also available at MEC. They cut quickly, stay sharp, weigh nothing and transport safely and easily. Every new router and trail builder needs a good quality portable saw. Anyone who camps or owns land will make great use of one as well. I'm not one who typically encourages consumerism, but the quality, durability, price, and SERVICE of Trail Blazer is an exception that deserves recognition.
When collapsed into it's storage position, I once missed clipping it to my harness and it dropped down the Cedar Point cliffs. It survived unharmed. That was 3 years, 20 trees, and hundreds of limbs ago. This fall, a split started to develop in the aluminum cylinders where the steel blade sits. It still works, but the blade must be tensioned repeatedly and each time it worsens the split a bit.
During the holidays, I contacted the manufacturer outlining the problem and asked "What are my options?". Monday I received an email reply that said "Please send me your mailing address and I will have a new saw sent to you." I sent that info and today at 9:30 am a courier delivered a complimentary replacement saw!
Go to trailblazerproducts and buy one for yourself. They're also available at MEC. They cut quickly, stay sharp, weigh nothing and transport safely and easily. Every new router and trail builder needs a good quality portable saw. Anyone who camps or owns land will make great use of one as well. I'm not one who typically encourages consumerism, but the quality, durability, price, and SERVICE of Trail Blazer is an exception that deserves recognition.
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