Periodized Training 1

It's been a busy time for work, with shitty weather, so there's not been much to report climbing-wise, with one major exception:  I've started to train for climbing.  This is something I've never done myself, which shocks everyone I've told thus far.  It's true:  in my close to 20 years of climbing, and 10 years as a strength and conditioning coach, I have never formally trained to become a better climber.

I have trained as a football player, hockey player, sprinter, skier, basketball player, and more.  I've managed to sneak an exercise into these programs from time to time that maybe climbing specific, but the overall program has always been one for maximizing power and speed for a very different sport.

This winter's work schedule has given me a window that allows me to train for climbing, so I figured I should take advantage.  When it comes to climbing, I am not competitive.  I don't keep a ticklist of my ascents.  I don't chase numbers either.  I rarely project established climbs. (Either I get it or I don't.)  I only grade my FA's because I'm pressured into it, and I'm lousy at putting an accurate number on them when I do.  So why do I want to become a better climber?

That question has been demotivating any thought of climbing training for more than a decade.  But recent discoveries at Munson Lake highlighted some weaknesses in my climbing, and the new lines responsible for exposing them look like 3-star gems.  I want to climb them.

For me, the quality of a climb has nothing to do with the grade*.  (Some of my favourite routes are 5.6.)  The only advantage of being a better climber is to have more high-quality routes/problems within your scope of ability.

*This is a bit of an overstatement.  Successfully climbing a route just barely within your physical limits does add a bit more to the experience, but not a full star.  This is a double-edged sword.  When it comes to climbing high-quality routes that are easy for you, they are still high-quality and fun, but will lack that "at my limit" bonus.

Stay tuned for updates on my training...