Monday 20 February 2012

Periodized Training 3 (Hypertrophy)

I'm half-way through phase 2 of this periodized training program for rock climbing, and I'm tired (as designed).  This week (3) is an unload week, and my body needs it (as designed)!  This months phase is still just three days a week in the gym; large muscle masses, high volumes of moderate loads with short rests.  As for the major lifts, Tuesdays are horizontal push and pull, Thursdays are push and pull below the sternum, and Fridays are push and pull involving the yoke .  The first two days start with a squat variation to begin the hormonal cascade, and because I need to simultaneously consider preparing for a four day ski trip next month.  One assistance exercise is done each day, and two for the trunk: one stability and one mobility.  Two to 5 sets per exercise.  All sets have a target of ten reps.

As for the climbing, I'm still getting on the woodie 3 times a week, and still for just 45 minutes to an hour. I've begun to focus on increasing repetitions and volume, particularly when it comes to grip style.  This has helped identify that I've developed an affinity a lumbrical gripping style with my left hand.  Perhaps it came about from making the jump from no climbing to climbing on a 45º wall with small pinches and thumb catches that offered security to a left hand while the seriously injured right took a reduced load.*  I'll discuss more about grip styles as they take a more prominent role in later phases.

Lumbrical dominant... has it's place but I tend to overuse it.
Open hand... one of the things I need to focus on. 
Another of my favourite ways to increase the volume is to stutter my way along each of the problems set for last phase.  Do move one, reverse move one, do move one and move two, reverse move two, do move two and three, reverse move three...  This triples the time to complete a route, and provides an eccentric load.  The former increases endurance, the latter exposes flaws in optimal beta as well as a small physiological stimulation for improving strength.  Since these problems were set to practice my limitations, the stuttering is really helping me refine my technique and improve my composure and control.

*Fifty four weeks ago I mutilated the tip of my right middle finger on a band saw.  I lost half the pad and a third of the nail.  It's almost fully grown back and it's nearly as strong as the adjacent fingers.

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