It's been a busy time for work, with shitty weather, so there's not been much to report climbing-wise, with one major exception: I've started to train for climbing. This is something I've never done myself, which shocks everyone I've told thus far. It's true: in my close to 20 years of climbing, and 10 years as a strength and conditioning coach, I have never formally trained to become a better climber.
I have trained as a football player, hockey player, sprinter, skier, basketball player, and more. I've managed to sneak an exercise into these programs from time to time that maybe climbing specific, but the overall program has always been one for maximizing power and speed for a very different sport.
This winter's work schedule has given me a window that allows me to train for climbing, so I figured I should take advantage. When it comes to climbing, I am not competitive. I don't keep a ticklist of my ascents. I don't chase numbers either. I rarely project established climbs. (Either I get it or I don't.) I only grade my FA's because I'm pressured into it, and I'm lousy at putting an accurate number on them when I do. So why do I want to become a better climber?
That question has been demotivating any thought of climbing training for more than a decade. But recent discoveries at Munson Lake highlighted some weaknesses in my climbing, and the new lines responsible for exposing them look like 3-star gems. I want to climb them.
For me, the quality of a climb has nothing to do with the grade*. (Some of my favourite routes are 5.6.) The only advantage of being a better climber is to have more high-quality routes/problems within your scope of ability.
*This is a bit of an overstatement. Successfully climbing a route just barely within your physical limits does add a bit more to the experience, but not a full star. This is a double-edged sword. When it comes to climbing high-quality routes that are easy for you, they are still high-quality and fun, but will lack that "at my limit" bonus.
Stay tuned for updates on my training...
Sunday, 29 January 2012
Thursday, 5 January 2012
Training for Climbing: My Philosophy
I may not be putting up cutting edge first ascents, but I am a decent climber and an excellent strength & conditioning coach, so I feel confident in sharing a bit of my philosophy on training for climbing. A climbing wall is for climbing practice, a weight room is for training the body. Let me expand on that statement:
The first part is obvious, and I doubt anyone will disagree with me on that one. A variety of angles covered in holds is best for learning to move efficiently, expanding/improving ones repertoire of techniques (flag, back flag, drop knee, back step, cross hook, bicycle, toe hook, heel hook, rock on, stem, jams, laybacks, matches, lock-offs, cross-throughs, gastons, underclings, etc.), practising static and dynamic movements, rest positions, and clipping.
When it comes to strength, power, flexibility, endurance, and related anatomical and physiological adaptations, a weight room should be the facility of choice for climbers. This is where gymnasts, football players, judokas, dancers and circus performers do their training. The club, field, mat, and studio are where practices are held. Why? because each facility is designed for a specific part of athletic development. A climbing gym with a few dumbbells, some rock rings, and a stability ball is not a weight room. A weight room with a hangboard and campus rungs doesn’t make a climbing gym. A fitness club with a machine circuit and a treadwall is neither.
To truly develop strength, you need really HEAVY implements (such as barbells, dumbbells, and cable systems) whose resistance can be varied based on the movement and progressed along with the athletes development. Flexibility and power are best trained with comparatively lighter loads, but they need to be finely adjustable. To decrease the chances of overuse injuries, the majority of conditioning (sport-specific endurance) can and should also take place in a weight room, and only fine tuned over a couple weeks on the wall.
Now, training an athlete is a very complex task that should be done on an individualized scale, and in a very structured manner. I simply cannot cover it in a blog format. If you’re interested in hiring me, you can. You can also check out my sister blog for general strength & conditioning info.
Finger strength requires a bit of attention here, though. Overall grip strength and endurance should be getting plenty of attention with climbing practice and the use of free weights. When working on movement and rest techniques, you should use a diversity of hold sizes and shapes with occasionally concentrated effort to grip the holds in ways you don’t like to (open hand and finger combinations especially). This will help train grip strength without overtraining it. If you’re coming off injury or have obvious weakness this will require more attention, maybe through use of a hangboard for a month or so.
The first part is obvious, and I doubt anyone will disagree with me on that one. A variety of angles covered in holds is best for learning to move efficiently, expanding/improving ones repertoire of techniques (flag, back flag, drop knee, back step, cross hook, bicycle, toe hook, heel hook, rock on, stem, jams, laybacks, matches, lock-offs, cross-throughs, gastons, underclings, etc.), practising static and dynamic movements, rest positions, and clipping.
When it comes to strength, power, flexibility, endurance, and related anatomical and physiological adaptations, a weight room should be the facility of choice for climbers. This is where gymnasts, football players, judokas, dancers and circus performers do their training. The club, field, mat, and studio are where practices are held. Why? because each facility is designed for a specific part of athletic development. A climbing gym with a few dumbbells, some rock rings, and a stability ball is not a weight room. A weight room with a hangboard and campus rungs doesn’t make a climbing gym. A fitness club with a machine circuit and a treadwall is neither.
To truly develop strength, you need really HEAVY implements (such as barbells, dumbbells, and cable systems) whose resistance can be varied based on the movement and progressed along with the athletes development. Flexibility and power are best trained with comparatively lighter loads, but they need to be finely adjustable. To decrease the chances of overuse injuries, the majority of conditioning (sport-specific endurance) can and should also take place in a weight room, and only fine tuned over a couple weeks on the wall.
Now, training an athlete is a very complex task that should be done on an individualized scale, and in a very structured manner. I simply cannot cover it in a blog format. If you’re interested in hiring me, you can. You can also check out my sister blog for general strength & conditioning info.
Finger strength requires a bit of attention here, though. Overall grip strength and endurance should be getting plenty of attention with climbing practice and the use of free weights. When working on movement and rest techniques, you should use a diversity of hold sizes and shapes with occasionally concentrated effort to grip the holds in ways you don’t like to (open hand and finger combinations especially). This will help train grip strength without overtraining it. If you’re coming off injury or have obvious weakness this will require more attention, maybe through use of a hangboard for a month or so.
Wednesday, 4 January 2012
Best Saw
For 10 years now I have been using a Trail Blazer Take-Down Buck Saw in my new routing endeavours. It has also served well around the yard and for clearing trails.
When collapsed into it's storage position, I once missed clipping it to my harness and it dropped down the Cedar Point cliffs. It survived unharmed. That was 3 years, 20 trees, and hundreds of limbs ago. This fall, a split started to develop in the aluminum cylinders where the steel blade sits. It still works, but the blade must be tensioned repeatedly and each time it worsens the split a bit.
During the holidays, I contacted the manufacturer outlining the problem and asked "What are my options?". Monday I received an email reply that said "Please send me your mailing address and I will have a new saw sent to you." I sent that info and today at 9:30 am a courier delivered a complimentary replacement saw!
Go to trailblazerproducts and buy one for yourself. They're also available at MEC. They cut quickly, stay sharp, weigh nothing and transport safely and easily. Every new router and trail builder needs a good quality portable saw. Anyone who camps or owns land will make great use of one as well. I'm not one who typically encourages consumerism, but the quality, durability, price, and SERVICE of Trail Blazer is an exception that deserves recognition.
When collapsed into it's storage position, I once missed clipping it to my harness and it dropped down the Cedar Point cliffs. It survived unharmed. That was 3 years, 20 trees, and hundreds of limbs ago. This fall, a split started to develop in the aluminum cylinders where the steel blade sits. It still works, but the blade must be tensioned repeatedly and each time it worsens the split a bit.
During the holidays, I contacted the manufacturer outlining the problem and asked "What are my options?". Monday I received an email reply that said "Please send me your mailing address and I will have a new saw sent to you." I sent that info and today at 9:30 am a courier delivered a complimentary replacement saw!
Go to trailblazerproducts and buy one for yourself. They're also available at MEC. They cut quickly, stay sharp, weigh nothing and transport safely and easily. Every new router and trail builder needs a good quality portable saw. Anyone who camps or owns land will make great use of one as well. I'm not one who typically encourages consumerism, but the quality, durability, price, and SERVICE of Trail Blazer is an exception that deserves recognition.
Monday, 19 December 2011
What Will Tomorrow Bring?
I added a few links to this blog: two guidebooks I've authored (well one is still in the works and for it I'm only one of a team of co-authors), as well as Proto Strength & Conditioning's page. The latter doesn't have anything climbing specific posted yet, but there is a bunch of sports nutrition information already up. Check it out.
It was frigid this morning with a thick hard frost on the car that took over 15 minutes to clear off, but it's sunny and warming up. There is a chance of flurries tonight, and tomorrow will be sunny and around the freezing point. I've got much of the day off tomorrow. Might the conditions be good enough to drive to and climb at Munson?
It was frigid this morning with a thick hard frost on the car that took over 15 minutes to clear off, but it's sunny and warming up. There is a chance of flurries tonight, and tomorrow will be sunny and around the freezing point. I've got much of the day off tomorrow. Might the conditions be good enough to drive to and climb at Munson?
Sunday, 11 December 2011
Chipping and Gluing
I read this article from Rock & Ice a week or so ago, and found it unsettling.
Making The Grade: Why You May Be Wrong About What's Right About Chipping
The author, Bill Ramsey (who is a climber and teaches philosophy at UNLV), presents a well thought out argument "that exposes hidden inconsistencies in our beliefs" about manufacturing holds on a climb. Basically, that the majority opinion that chipping and gluing is wrong, is an arbitrary rule that is out of place taking into account what we consider acceptable or right.
Some of his philosophy is sound and he highlights some interesting evidence to support his thesis. Yet, I (and I'm sure most of my 2 followers) see an obvious distinction between chipping holds, and cleaning/trundling/scrubbing.
Mr. Ramsey states:
"Modifying the rock to make it climbable" connotes intentionally making the route easier. I have over 150 first ascents to my name, and not once did I clean with the intention to make it easier. Once sand and soil are removed I often expected it to be easier, but those were not my motives. Nor were they the motives of any of the 18 other people on those ascents. Our objective is to at once remove (sand, soil, loose rock, vegetation, etc.) what is likely to come off from subsequent traffic up and down the climb, so that the route that remains for future generations is not changed from the route that was initially climbed and recorded as a first ascent. In the wet woods of the Maritimes and along our freeze-thaw coasts, this scrubbing typically makes the route easier to see, faster to dry, and safer. These are expectations, not primary objectives. Cracks become better at accepting jams and protection. In terms of difficulty, aside form the usually improved friction, features and holds that get pried or brushed off may expose more or less of a hold in their place. Just as often as this makes it more climbable, or has no effect, or makes it less climbable.
Manufacture, by all definitions that I find, means to purposefully make something that can be used. This is a more blatant flaw in Mr. Ramsey's argument. Statement (a) only hints at intentionally changing a route, whereas statement (b) introduces a new term that expresses an intentional act.
So let's rewrite this in a way that doesn't endorse chipping:
Making The Grade: Why You May Be Wrong About What's Right About Chipping
The author, Bill Ramsey (who is a climber and teaches philosophy at UNLV), presents a well thought out argument "that exposes hidden inconsistencies in our beliefs" about manufacturing holds on a climb. Basically, that the majority opinion that chipping and gluing is wrong, is an arbitrary rule that is out of place taking into account what we consider acceptable or right.
Some of his philosophy is sound and he highlights some interesting evidence to support his thesis. Yet, I (and I'm sure most of my 2 followers) see an obvious distinction between chipping holds, and cleaning/trundling/scrubbing.
Mr. Ramsey states:
(a) There are circumstances such that, in the preparation of a route, modifying the rock to make it climbable is acceptable.
(b) The set of circumstances in which rock modification is acceptable sometimes includes the manufacturing of holds.
(c) Therefore, the manufacturing of holds is sometimes acceptable.
"Modifying the rock to make it climbable" connotes intentionally making the route easier. I have over 150 first ascents to my name, and not once did I clean with the intention to make it easier. Once sand and soil are removed I often expected it to be easier, but those were not my motives. Nor were they the motives of any of the 18 other people on those ascents. Our objective is to at once remove (sand, soil, loose rock, vegetation, etc.) what is likely to come off from subsequent traffic up and down the climb, so that the route that remains for future generations is not changed from the route that was initially climbed and recorded as a first ascent. In the wet woods of the Maritimes and along our freeze-thaw coasts, this scrubbing typically makes the route easier to see, faster to dry, and safer. These are expectations, not primary objectives. Cracks become better at accepting jams and protection. In terms of difficulty, aside form the usually improved friction, features and holds that get pried or brushed off may expose more or less of a hold in their place. Just as often as this makes it more climbable, or has no effect, or makes it less climbable.
Manufacture, by all definitions that I find, means to purposefully make something that can be used. This is a more blatant flaw in Mr. Ramsey's argument. Statement (a) only hints at intentionally changing a route, whereas statement (b) introduces a new term that expresses an intentional act.
So let's rewrite this in a way that doesn't endorse chipping:
(a) There are circumstances such that, in the preparation of a route, modifying the rockto make it climbableis acceptable.
(b) The set of circumstances in which rock modification is acceptable sometimes includes themanufacturinginadvertent modification of holds, surfaces and features.
(c)Therefore,the manufacturing of holds, which by definition is an intentional act to create, issometimes acceptablenot addressed in (a) or (b).
Monday, 5 December 2011
Loving this crazy weather
Until this year, I've never climbed 3 consecutive days in December. And I've done this at home, not on a trip south. Yesterday there were four of us out to Munson, and I did get the project on the arete of Colt 45 (Ya' need two hairdos V3). On the Chopping block, I scrubbed a line just left of the descent tree. It's an easy slab with an interesting topout all of us flashed with varying degrees of grace. (You're gonna love my nuts V1). Adam and I also changed the grades on a few others.
Today, I went in the afternoon and really hoped to get the sloper traverse project on 7-10. The friction wasn't as good as yesterday, but I brought out a second pad and intended to work it. So I did. After a number of attempts where I popped off at the match or lost the heel, I decided to take a break and work those on Colt 45 instead. It was wet. So I grabbed the rope and scrubbed the Mace Slab, then Small Slab.
When walking back to the car to get my stuff to work the 7-10 project, the road was visibly wet and spongy. Instead I got the saw and shears and cleaned up around the slabs a bit. Small Slab now has two fun looking lines nearly ready to go. I wonder if that will happen before next year.
Today, I went in the afternoon and really hoped to get the sloper traverse project on 7-10. The friction wasn't as good as yesterday, but I brought out a second pad and intended to work it. So I did. After a number of attempts where I popped off at the match or lost the heel, I decided to take a break and work those on Colt 45 instead. It was wet. So I grabbed the rope and scrubbed the Mace Slab, then Small Slab.
When walking back to the car to get my stuff to work the 7-10 project, the road was visibly wet and spongy. Instead I got the saw and shears and cleaned up around the slabs a bit. Small Slab now has two fun looking lines nearly ready to go. I wonder if that will happen before next year.
Saturday, 3 December 2011
Catching Up
For the longest time google maps wasn't allowing the addition of rich text, so I wasn't able to add photos for the online guide to bouldering at Munson Lake. When I made some updates after my day out there today, I realized it is now possible once again. So this first post will just be a bunch of pics.
Three in Marty's Hidden Gully. Only the leftmost has anything on it yet.
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| Glute (Cornerstones) |
These two are in the Hardwood area. On the left is CBCBD a fun little problem, and on the right is The Nest, who's right arete has been cleaned and climbed.
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| Conglomerate |
The only shot from today, this is the West face of The Clam (Roadside Area). I spent a while working this hard slab that Dom and I cleaned a few weeks ago. I figured out how to start it, and can do so consistently, but the next two moves to gain the pocket have stumped me. Much of the beautiful day was spent trimming branches, but I managed to put up 2 new problems, and made some progress on 3 projects. Hopefully I'll send at lest one of them tomorrow.
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