Rain

A rainy weekend puts an end to Maritime bouldering plans, but it gives me time to post an update on some of the developments that have taken place at Munson Lake.

A couple weeks ago, I went back to Graffiti Block to put the final touches on the landing.  Thirty or 30 or 40 cubic feet of dry masonry later, and we are left with a flat platform that should remain above the waterline for the bulk of a typical climbing season.

With the labour out of the way, I switched my focus to finding a way up the inspiring East face.  The features on the right side are arranged rather uniquely: down low are a trio of big edges for the sit start; to their left 7 or 8 crystal protrusions as decent foot holds; a long reach above the big edges are 3 thin edges (crimps); a bit higher up are a collection of two pad texture-less slopers arranged in every direction.  This clustered pattern of features makes deciphering the proper holds and sequence a very complex task.  The balance, flexibility and opposition forces required add another layer of challenge.  I worked it until my brain and fingers were in need of a break.

Down the road at Hidden Wall, I polished the last bit of dirt off of couple lines, then polished off the FA’s.

The last bit of Hidden Wall, for the guide.

C Goodman on Pinch Overhang V3, (Hidden Wall) at Munson Lake. M Delaney photo.

I returned to Graffiti Block, and within few tries made it up the East face, then sprinted up the slab on the Northwest, adding yet another new problem to the boulder.

That evening PJ, Seb and I worked the crack on Colt 45.  We each struggled on a different move, and kept getting shut down.  Finally, on the last attempt of the day, PJ managed to find a bit more strength and just enough grace to nab the first ascent.  Dubbed Two Zig Zags, at V8 it is the hardest problem yet established on the West side of Munson Lake.  At 3-stars, it is also one of the nicest.

S Launcelot on Two Zig Zags V8,  Munson Lake, NB

As an aside, the star rating we’ve chosen is simple and straightforward.  With just 4 well-defined categories, there is minimal room for splitting hairs and consensus is easily reached.  Here is what we’ve established:

 *** = Excellent problem that would be considered a classic anywhere. It's worth a trip just to do it.

 ** = Very good problem for the region (e.g. The Maritimes; or Maine & NB). It's gratifying to complete, so it is one you will remember for a long time.

 * = Good problem for the area (e.g. Munson Lake).  If it's within your abilities you should do it at least once, as there's something fun and unique about it.  

No star = Common. The problem is somewhat plain, and could be found anywhere. 

Last weekend, a carload from Moncton and I played around the Roadside area some more.  Pierre hardly recognized the Hidden Wall after all the work Shawn & Denise put in since his previous visit.  He was surprised to learn that the biggest two boulders were not nearly touching each other, and now that the trees and brush were cleared they didn’t form a continuous wall!  (Hidden Wall is a double misnomer.)

As we took turns sending the established problems, Pierre would ponder the possibility of new ones up lines I’d previously dismissed for one reason or another.  A quick scrub and a few attempts later and he ended up putting up four worthwhile new problems.  Emma added a fifth.

P Arsenault on Ya Silly Fat Cow V3, Munson Lake, NB

Across the street I added a new problem at Piled Up.  Dubbed Mary Poppins (* V6), it’s a short, but powerful problem capped with a very strenuous top out.  Pierre managed to link it’s start with the off-width known as Wrestling Match, brining the daily tally of new problems to seven.